Day 18: Reliegos – Leon

26km

Though most albergues are pretty similar, there’s always the sense that if you walk a little further or stop a little sooner maybe you’ll find something a little nicer.

I was generally satisfied with my accommodation, even if it was valuable only for its story telling quotient (see crazy Pedro in Ciruena).  When I stopped in Mansilla de las Mulas for my first cafe con leche of the day, I realized I had made a mistake.

I took my coffee in the geranium-filled courtyard of an ancient hostel.  Inside there were hanging hams and a flat screen television.  That television was especially intriguing, not because I wanted to watch the futball, but because I bet it meant they had good showers.

Alas, after commiserating with the pilgrims still lingering in their luxury, I set of with Leon in my sights.

It had usually been my practice to stop in major cities and Leon was the most major of them all, with a population 

 

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